The Sophisticate: How to Pull off the Bold Jacket
Approach a boldly colored sportcoat in the same manner as your go-to-hell pant – keep your tertiary items tailored and subtle to isolate your prized item. You want to communicate your understanding of the presupposed rule before breaking any. Dress in a prototypical, business casual manner, then substitute that singular item. Break up your navy suit with a patchwork of bleeding madras, still donning your cuffed gabardine trousers, solid tie, pressed oxford and bench-made brogues.
And make sure it’s very well tailored. To prevent the blazer from conjuring Ringling Bros. allusions, fit the coat within an inch of your life. Though I typically avoid recommending many atypical alterations, do not hesitate to request of your tailor to taper sleeves, shorten jackets, reduce blades, take in sides or front, and cut working button holes (and do push up your sleeves…it is summer after all.) Avoid trading color for quality. Many styles originate from the same mills and tailoring houses as your suiting – thus look for stitched canvassing (if present) and luxurious linings, heavy, pearl buttons as testaments to the quality of your statement item.
Considering the item will likely reach less daylight than your everyday styles, plan on these lasting years with proper care and storage (garment brush and cloth bag).
The likelihood of finding a bold piece that is either secondhand and impeccably maintained or seasonally reduced greatly spikes, as few wearers invest in such indulgences. Expect well-kept vintage finds from men who know how to well keep clothes. To bout, over the course of its life, say on average 5-6 wears per year, a man’s physique could understandably shift before the count hits 60 days of use, providing a gently-worn, neatly kept go-to-hell find for a fitter frame.
In addition, consult places like Gilt Groupe — quite often you’ll see bold jackets that few buyers are willing to purchase, despite these garments’ awesome quality and potent ability to make an outfit praiseworthy. The jacket shown on these three gents is a jacket that initially retailed for over $2,000. It appeared on Gilt for something like $750, reappeared the next time for around $500, and still, having not yet sold, reappeared in a Gilt Final Sale for a mere $250.
Be wary, as you may find yourself the target of much positive attention from the opposite sex — Bold items create instant and natural conversation. With that said, much luck on the hunt!
And now… a study of three looks with the bold jacket.
Look 1: Dressed Up
Sport Coat by Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Shirt by Malo, Tie by Hermes, Trousers by Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Shoes by Brooks Brothers English (Vintage, designed by Church's)
To reiterate: keep things simple, and merely replace the typical navy jacket with the prized bold item. You can’t have too much going on at once. Often, what works best is to use a very simple but potent color scheme of black and white to go behind your loud jacket.
Here, a slim fitting jacket looks proper — not like one of those baggy $4 bright pieces from the 70s that you pick up in the thrift store.
Look 2: Snazzy with Jeans
Sport Coat by Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Shirt by Charvet, Jeans by A.P.C, Watch by Rolex, Shoes by Gucci
So you’ve got a party at your friend’s apartment and dress pants and a tie might be a bit too much. Don’t sweat it. Throw on your favorite straight leg jeans and a simple shirt and you’re good to go. You’ll look young and hip, snazzy and classy.
Be aware, when you’re infusing color in places other than the jacket, keep it simple. Here, a subtle palette of blue and yellow in the shirt is not distracting or overwhelming. A bright check shirt, however, would be too much.
Also, take note of the other details on the jacket. Don’t skimp on making this jacket look just as awesome as your others! We had the tailor make functional buttonholes on the jacket cuff and tighten up the sleeves.
Look 3: Casual Friday
Sport Coat by Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Polo Shirt by Burberry, Jeans by Ralph Lauren Black Label, Shoes by Common Projects
We know the feeling – you want to just hang out, but don the jacket at the same time. Again, simple tertiary items. A fitted polo and jeans will just about always do the trick. Throw on some logo-less sneakers with limited embellishments and you’re free to hop on your bike and cruise around.
4 Responses “The Sophisticate: How to Pull off the Bold Jacket ”
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Who is the model with the tie and the black trousers?
It almost works on the third guy.
As much as I like a statement jacket, you have to be brave to wear it in public.
Also, these guys don’t just throw it on with anything; the rest of their outfits are high-end designer (Burberry, Rolex, etc.).