Prepidemic Guides: Sensible Buying
It’s easy to say you bought something because you “felt like it.” Too often, though, “because I felt like it” becomes an excuse for making a bad purchase when lacking a clear shopping philosophy. As dressing with distinction means shopping with distinction, let us share some of our basic tenets to making the purchase (special thanks for the inspiration of Mr. Crompton at PermanentStyle).
You’ve heard the advice: the price should reflect how often you wear it. But do you really know what determines how often you’ll wear something? Here are the step-by-step process we recommend when considering a purchase.
Survey the Situation: What Do You Need?
0. Coordination
Okay, before we get into it, ask yourself what kind of shopper you are. If you are past the stage of buying the basics, we suggest you look through your closet and take inventory of the items that would make the greatest impact on your wardrobe. Be wary of the little things and think about both color and texture – while a rich brown pair of oxfords will certainly pull several pieces together, the right pocket square can do wonders as well.
1. Fit
It doesn’t matter if an item is the perfect hue to compliment your complexion, made from Mongolian cashmere, or hand-knit by Scottish artisans, if it doesn’t fit you, it’s not going to reflect quality and distinction. Understanding the correct fundamental fits for your unique body shape is crucial for getting the most of your money; and this applies from suits to t-shirts. Do note, however, that a good tailor does wonders, and once your find an expert, don’t save him for suit alterations. There are plenty of resources on the web that provides what exactly constitutes a good fit, and our future posts will continue to contribute to the discussion.
There is no reconciling poor fit: Get the cut right
2. Color
After the silhouette, color is the second most critical visual cue: a distinct color will often overcome poor design features. The correct harmony within an outfit (contrast colors, warm/cool coordination, etc.) will contribute to the aesthetic of every piece, and an ability to match the outfit to your complexion will do the same for the man (and fortunately, we already have a guide for that).
3a. Style (fashion)
The notion of buying for style rather than quality has become much more accepted recently, but if you’re a trendy kind of guy, make sure you are buying the right trend items. Make sure that the design is meaningful (the trend will stick around a while) and difficult to replicate (a stylish jacket carries a permanent distinction while a stylish belt/sock/hat stays unique for mere weeks). Also, understand what get’s noticed: those $300 self-fading, Japanese selvage denim may give you brownie points among those who know, but they provide little visual value; wardrobe basics (jeans, t-shirts, underwear, etc.) and layering pieces (shirts, polos, etc.) are great areas to save a few dollars, as long as they fit the two criteria above. Finally, while any devout reader knows that we adore those discrete signs of quality, we are still rational enough to question their value from time to time. If the price difference between a seven-fold and a traditionally constructed tie or a hand-stitched and a machine-sewn buttonhole is greater than the resulting ego boost, it’s okay to go for the lower ticketed item (we won’t tell).
Ask Yourself, "What Fits My Personality?"
That being said, we also want to challenge the idea of ignoring a high price to buy a “classic piece” that will “last a lifetime.” First, let’s redefine a “classic” item as an item adhering to a long trend; even the most classy items get modern makeovers. Do not be afraid to buy “trendy items” with higher armholes, trimmer legs, and slimmed-down ties if they fit your shape as the clothes will wear out long before these trends pass (we cannot say the same for those $1,000 Thom Browne trousers). Second, while one can justify dishing out thousands for a made-to-measure suit by getting it repaired, let’s not forget the happiness value of donating the old and buying the new. Finally, do not confuse classic with “heritage.” Frankly, too many heritage brands are basing high prices on their history, distinguishing themselves by sticking their logos on otherwise common items. Buy heritage for their unique, not classic, design.
3b. Quality
Unfortunately, a designer brand is no longer a guarantee for good quality. When the same factory produces shirts priced $100 apart, it’s absolutely crucial that you know where an item is made and the distinguishing signs of quality wardrobe staples (suits, shoes, shirts, etc.). Along these lines, take good note of the item’s material, an important determinant of comfort and visible quality.
Quality Manufacturing + Quality Fabric + Quality Style= A Quality Purchase
4. Brand
If the above categories are not satisfied, we urge that you ignore the beautiful logo-bearing piece of polyester and walk away from the purchase. Even with the best brand “looks,” uniformity demonstrates only laziness and lack of personality, and your reading this article suggests that you’re a different kind of man.
So, to recap, you walk into a store having taken full account of your wardrobe. You pick out items that fit your silhouette and complement your best colors. Once these qualities are met, you play around with twists on fit, interesting patterns, and creative flourishes, knowing full well that they are trendy, but tasteful. You check out their factory of origin and feel the material, knowing that they come from trusted brands with a strong image. You walk out confident that your new purchase is money well spent, and has just elevated your sartorial spirit.
3 Responses “Prepidemic Guides: Sensible Buying ”
Subscribe to Prepidemic!
great article, i love it !
thank you for this article, an absolute must for us new starters to the world of “classic style”.